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Geyser Installation Fundamentals Explained

In this post I will explain the typical basic needs of an audio, modern-day high stress, horizontal installment. The complying with summary relates to a contemporary high stress (400/600Kpa) system typically made by Kwikot South Africa.



Much less common are old reduced pressure systems (100kpa) open pipe or "Latco" type systems. Be conscious that the parts are NOT compatible between the 2 distinctive systems - High stress as well as Reduced stress! It is feasible to get rid of an old low stress system as well as replace it with a modern high pressure system nevertheless - you purchase a brand-new high pressure hot spring and mount it according to the existing spec.



The hot spring rests in a tray made of plastic (commonly red) or tin plate. I choose the plastic ones.

Since June 2001, the drip tray is not optional - its got to exist as well as there needs to be a drainpipe pipeline for it! The drain is a 50mm PVC waste pipeline that drains pipes the tray by piping the water out your house. I have seen many drip trays set up without drains! If your setup pre-dates June 2001 you may intend to get a plumbing professional to check out it.

The Basic Principles Of Geyser Installation

The following most recognizable feature would certainly be the. These are little brass parts installed at the end of a 30cm length of pipe. Both vacuum cleaner breakers stand up and down regarding 30cm above the hot spring. These are necessary, as they stop water siphoning out the geyser when the cool supply is stopped.

Bear in mind that vacuum breakers are a sensibly new requirement - there are still thousands of old HP systems out there without vacuum breakers and I am yet to see one collapse. Just due to the fact that I have not seen it doesn't imply it's not taking place!

The chilly water side is the side that directly connects to the drainpipe dick and goes into the geyser at the bottom. After the shut down shutoff you would normally discover a Pressure Control Shutoff (PCV). There are a variety of various types, primarily made of brass however some are made of more helpful hints plastic.

This blog is where the PCV launches pressure as well as this is the pipe that commonly trickles. Don't worry if you can not discover the PCV next to the hot spring - it might be totaled 10 metres away, frequently in a much more easily accessible put on a wall surface outside. Sometimes it's in a little plastic box exterior.

About Geyser Installation

This is an important element that should never be messed with or 'repaired'. This valve ought to have a metal (copper or steel) pipe linked to it as well as the pipe need to lead directly out the building. This air vent pipeline is a crucial safety and security feature of the whole system. It has to be constructed from copper or steel - plastic.

The T&P valve is the least optional part - it needs to be there! - The weight of the geyser have to be adequately supported on the roofing system trusses - a minimum of 2 assistances under the 'feet' of the geyser. If it looks unstable get a plumbing professional to examine it out.

The geyser has to be earthed! I have actually seen many hot springs with the earth wire inapplicable. All the copper pipelines should additionally be earthed as well as bound to the geyser planet.


Again, these are frequently just left lying following to the geyser. There are essentially just two main thermostat types - the contemporary round "Kwiktherm" in newer Kwikot hot special info springs and the VK (rectangle-shaped block) key in older hot springs as well as in some newer non-Kwikot devices. The hot spring may be fed (cool water) with polcop (plastic) pipe - as much as the shut off valve, but the pipeline into and also out of the hot spring should be copper or galvanized steel.

7 Simple Techniques For Geyser Installation

The warm water side must be copper, steel or accordingly rated (70) plastic or composite pipe. Keep in mind that you must have at the very least 1m of copper/steel pipe out the hot spring - you might not attach plastic (compound) pipe directly to the geyser. As above, the PCV and T&P must be constructed from copper or steel - specifically the vent out of the T&P valve.



I have actually seen a number of installments where the installer has merely run a brief length of 22mm copper into the drip tray with the suggestion being that the T&P can vent directly right into the drip tray. A concept since the hot (100 +) water/steam melts the drip tray as well as the PVC drain pipe.

The PCV is generally above the geyser and also the cold water streams down into the geyser. This is rather important because it forms an anti-syphon loop that avoids the geyser from draining back through the inlet in case of a water failing. If you obtain warm water appearing your cool taps when the supply of water stops working then this is not functioning properly.

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